Wandering Around the World

We´re now back in San Martin de los Andes (SMA) after arriving back from another brilliant 3 day hike. The weather was more than perfect, no biblical storms or snow to contend with this time, plus the route a little easier.

On the first day we took the rather expensive tourist boat trip acoss the Lago Lacar to Quila Quina, a tiny lake side village/resort. Having bought a map of Park Lanin, which included our route, we set off in search of the trailhead. All I can say is that navigating with a 1:200,000 scale map on a trail with no markings isn´t the easiest thing in the world. Thanks to the help from an Argentine couple we found the trail, an unmarked cart track starting next to a sign in Spainish saying something along the lines of "Private property do not enter" Another 4 hours and a few strip to shorts and sandles river crossings we made it to the hidden lake. It was more than worth the effort. We found the wild campsite, dumped our packs and headed down the the waters edge. We were truly blinded by the sun as the waters surface turned into a huge golden mirror. As the sun sunk behind the mountains in the distance the temperature plummeted making soup and pasta followed by hot chocolate the tastiest meal in the wolrd.

Waking up to freezing conditions when you´re wrapped up in a cozy sleeping bag is never nice but we had a long day ahead so only had 1/2hr lie-in. Come on, we deserved it. A huge bowl of yummy porridge and some chocolate later and we were off before any one else had even appeared from their tents. The mornings´ trail led us through the tallest bamboo and up and over to the next valley. With plastic ticker tape sporatdiclly placed along the trail we manged fine up until lunch which we had in a little clearing. Not too sure if it was the sugar rush from lunch but we lost the the trail and had to struggle through bracken, bamboo, brambles down hill. We managed to find the trail once more and crossed paths with a bunch of Argentine lads walking the other way. They said the next camp was 5hrs off but had brilliant lakeside beach access! From this point onwards the going was easier and followed pretty close to the lake edge. The lads description was spot on as we approached the camping area the lake`s edge was little more than 10 metres away; brilliant for skimming stones (only managed 13 bounces)

Our previous relaxing night definitely didn`t make our 5am start any easier. We had to make the 11.30 bus to nearby Hua Hum, only 9km away but it was either that or wait until the 8pm bus. The walk to Hua Hum was pretty easy and just followed along a 4x4 track `til it met the main(?) dust road. We asked at the Argentinian border control about the bus and they said we could wait anywhere and it`d pick us up. After a bit of a wait by the side of the road a cloud appeared in the distance. We were both glad to find the cloud was our bus and jumped on board whilst trying not to inhale too much dust. We were soon back in SMA were the cosy ensuite was waiting for us along with the local and much needed laundrette.

Settling in Bariloche
So we arrived into Bariloche after a mammoth 33hr bus journey and in need of some luxury we found this great little hotel run by the craziest grannie ever. The decor was dated but had the comfiest bed, well anything beats a semi reclining coach seat. During the day we made our preperation for the 3-4days trekking ahead of us; got our food together, popped into the local mountainering club for a map and status of the route then picked up some trekking poles due to the potentially snowy conditions on some of the route. As we were returning home from dinner it started to rain and didn`t let up for 15hours!

Bad weather sit out
Calling the next day a right-off, due to the weather ,we managed to find two beds in a cosy but outdoor adventure orientated hostel. The perfect place to sit out the bad weather. After a look on the internet for the local forecast we decided to make our way to the mountains the following day.

Nahuel Haupi Traverse: Day 1
We woke early to find the rain had eventually stopped and made our way to the bus stop. After asking a bus driver and a helpful Dutch couple we rushed to the right stop, chucked our bags in the boot and jumped onboard along with 20 other trekkers with standing room only. The coach was so heavily laden that it scrapped the road as we swung round corners up hill.

After our human sardine tin of a bus journey it was a joy to be making the most of the suns rays and taking in the scenery of the surrounding lakes and mountians. After 4 1/2hrs of passing through dense green forest and scrub our nights stop over come into sight. After our fist experience of walking over snow and crossing a fast flowing river we managed to find a great spot for our tent at the edge of the nearby lake. An interesting dinner of ham and pea soup, pasta and instant potato flakes was soon followed by a well deserved nights kip.

Nahuel Haupi Traverse: Day 2
Early to bed early to rise and all that. Yet again the weather had the upper hand and we spent the day:

• diverting mini rivers away from our tent
• listening to thunder rumble around the valley we were in
• keeping warm in our sleeping bags
• eatting crackers, salami, chocolate and rasins plus - anything but leave the tent in the biblical downpour
• making runs down the side of the lake and over the river for the essential loo stops at the refugio

Nahuel Haupi Traverse: Day 3
As the weather settled it gave us the window to make a break for it. The only thing to left to decide was whether to return back down the path we had come up on day 1 or push on up out of the snow covered valley slopes and down and out of the next valley. The snow was all too inviting and were soon walking up the snowy and rocky slopes, following the all important trail "red dot" markers. 2 hours and some scrabling up rocks later we were on top of the 2000m high exposed ridge looking down across scree slopes, meandeering rivers and our next set of snow dusted slopes to climbed in the distance. It took us another two 1/2 hrs of forest trails, boggy areas and a few river crossings to reach the mountain slopes we had viewed earlier. For our efforts we were rewarded with the largest rainbow I`ve ever seen, spanning the entire valley now below us.

As we climbed higher the weather closed in, turning the sky a grey/purple colour and eventually giving way to the expect down pour. From this point we could see refugio Jakob far away down in the valley. Having our end point in sight made the evil scree slopes easier to negotiate but with thickly packed scrub and worsening conditions we lost the trail. Not hard when the trail is through a huge boggy area. We pushed on, following rivers down slope, until we reached the main river next to the refugio. Now that light was fading fast there was no point in trying to pick the trail up again so waded across the river and soon found the refugio, our lifeline for the night.

After a hearty meal of pasta, instant veggie soup and potato flakes we put our heads down for the night with the rain pelting it down on our poor tent.

Nahuel Haupi Traverse: Day 4

We packed our soggy selves up and headed out from the refugio down into the adjoining valley before coming to the crossing point just after a huge waterfall. We presumed there would be a simple bridge of sorts but we presumed wrong. What we were confronted with was steel cable spanning width of the river. Yet agin there was no choice. We had to wade through the torrent of water and hang on for, litterally, dear life until we reached the other side. Sarah`s bag got a little wet but apart from that we survived unscathed.

Returning to Argentina we had the guarenteed luxury of staying in a comfy bed with ensuite for the whole of the festive season. In addition to this the views from the chilled out sofa areas, the hostel basically faced over the town and then the lakes and mountains beyond, were worth it alone.

Not all days were spent looking round tacky tourist shops, enjoying the best hot chocolate in the world or buying even more handmade chocolate, honest.

Christmas was a bit of a let down with regard to the festiveness of the whole town. They didn`t even have a Christmas tree in the main square or any lights. I made up for it in our little dorm by buying Sarah some decorations for one of her christmas presents.

For Boxin day we went with a brilliant dutch couple to the nearby Moreno glacier, the most active glacial region in the world. We hired a car and spent the whole day gazing at the glacier. With the face being 50m high and almost 5km wide the chunks that fell off into the lake made one hell of a crash.

We saved the best local attraction til last. The local bird reserve was a bit of a joke with huge fallen down concrete telegraph poles and bashed up bird hides. We did get up close with swooping hawks protecting their territory though.

Necochea
Arriving late into Necochea from Beunos Aires we grabbed a taxi with the most helpful driver in the world. The campsite we intended to stay at was closed so he literaly whizzed us across town, with the back of the car swinging out on corners, to an alternative riverside campsite. The other campsite looked closed but on closer inspection we found a crazy but every so friendly night porter/ security guard. He didn`t speak a word of English but before midnight we had little "melony" our brand new tent up. We did attract a new canine critter but this time he was as plasid and friendly as they come. We named him Sammy.

The next day we crammed Necochea living into 12hours - spending time realxing near the beach, watching a crazy dog show, riding bikes through parks, forests and sand dunes, enjoying a walk down by the river with it`s huge shipwreck and enjoying homecooked grub with a carton of wine. We had a chat with Carlos, the nightporter chap, he told us that Sammy had been guarding over our tent the whole of the previous night.

Bahia Blanca
Having to wait until 2pm for our coach to Bahia Blanca it was another late night arrival for our quick stopover in a new city. We managed to find a cosy and cheap hotel near to the bus station with a video and pizza place just around the corner. Whilst we waited for our pizza we had a laugh at the list of dodgey/classic titles they had to rent: Father of the Bride, Ghostbusters, Honey I Shrunk the Kids.

The next day we booked our tickets to Peurto Madryn and put our "killing time" skills to the test as the coach didn`t leave until just before midnight. Thank god for left luggage! We had fun people wacthing in the central plaza, the main park and whilst enjoying a couple of beers along the main high street.

With the likelyhood of being fed on the coach we only needed a small snack to keep us going `til boarding the coach. Having looked around most of the empty restaurants, people don`t head out until gone 10pm, we chose a tendre libre (all you can eat). The waiter chappy explained how things worked and said we had the choice of anything on the buffet carts. We dutifully tucked into the range of pasta, salads anf hot meats. On return from our second mini plateful we were in for a bit of a surprise. The largest hot platter of chicken breast, beef chops and beef steaks. We soon slimmed down the portions from the buffet cart.

Peurto Madryn

Well the weather certainly got colder the further south we got. No wonder that the Welsh decided to settle there with all their crazy sheep farming antics. It also meant that there were plenty of authentic welsh tea rooms to keep warm in. For the price of a cup of tea back home we were spoilt for choice with plate full of 8 different cakes, a plate of scones and cheese and the biggest pot of tea with woolen tea cosy, goes without saying.

Having our fill of cakes and tea the next day we went on a day long wildlife adventure on Penninsula Valdez. It was brilliant to get so close to elephant seals, sea lions, pengiuins with their fluffy little chicks, llamas, birds or prey and other native species. Sarah and I were like little kids running along the coast trying to see more and more.

7th, 8th and 9th December

Arriving after the best nights sleep to the heat of a green house as the morning sun broke through the window of the boat and reflecting off the huge mirror clad skyscrapers.

We found our way round and manged to get some tasty braekfast of fresh orange, coffee and croissants for little more than 1.20 (pounds) for the two of us.

A short while later we made it to our accommodation for the next 3 nights.hostel sol A large 3 storey building with the most friendly family in the world, including the pet kitten "Soli" who loved chasing screwed up paper balls.

Our bid to find a new tent was soon successful as we came across more outdoor equipment shops than you can shake a stick (or a large branch) at.

The choice of food was amazing: tasty pasta along busy streets ideal for people watching, huge pizzas in a cosy local restaurant, fresh salads with cheery waiters. The best meal being an amazing vegetarian all you can eat buffet with unlimited drinks and a scrummy selection of puddings. We bumped into a fellow Londoner and had a chat about weird parents, travelling and dodgey hoteliers; all in all a great afternoon.